Sustainability As A Success Factor In The Cosmetics Industry
As the world’s leading trade fair for processing and packaging solutions, interpack brings together decision-makers and experts from a wide range of industries – from food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics to chemicals and consumer goods. Sustainability is a central issue across the board. In the cosmetics industry in particular, the growing environmental awareness of consumers and regulatory requirements are driving innovation along the entire value chain, with packaging playing a key role. Current developments are demonstrating how manufacturers, machine builders and material suppliers are translating these challenges into market-ready solutions.
The ecological aspect is moving further into the focus of cosmetics packaging, with reduction of the carbon footprint being a key issue. In that context, manufacturers are coming under pressure from legal regulations such as the EU Packaging Regulation. However, a large number of new developments, from the switch to paper-based materials to the use of recycled materials, demonstrate that the industry has long been making progress on that score.
Interpack exhibitor Greiner Packaging clearly formulates the vision of tomorrow’s cosmetics packaging: recyclable, lightweight, based on PCR plastics and with a reduced carbon footprint. To that end, the packaging manufacturer’s Design & Prototyping department DesPro has been developing refill solutions such as Trigger Refill, a refill bottle for multiple dosing, featuring an integrated dosing unit for precise millilitre-level dispensing, or the refill funnel “Refill Funnel” for soap, dishwashing liquid, or shampoo concentrates. The concept: a funnel-shaped package, the base of which is sealed with a strip, is placed on an empty bottle; the lower strip is pulled off to the side and then the main sealing film is removed from the top. The resulting air flow empties the concentrate contained in the packaging into the bottle, before water is topped up via the funnel so that no product is wasted. During production, up to 100 percent rPET can be used.
Cosmetic tubes with added value
In the tube segment, which according to the European industry association Etma accounts for around 50 per cent of European production in the cosmetics sector, manufacturers are increasingly focusing on functional added value. Tubes enable precise dosing, provide hygienic protection for sensitive formulations and can be combined with smart caps, roll-on systems or applicators.
One current example is a joint project by interpack exhibitor PackSys and the Tubex Group: they have developed an aluminium tube with a screw-on brush applicator that allows precise application of liquid formulations to the skin or nails. Aluminium’s excellent barrier properties provide reliable protection against oxygen ingress and extend the shelf life of sensitive contents.
Paper-based cosmetics packaging on trend
Product packaging is a key component of Scope 3 emissions coming from companies in the cosmetics industry. And so, in addition to plastic reduction, the focus is increasingly shifting to fibre-based materials. The “Pulp in Action” consortium, which brings together 50 players from the cosmetics industry, aims to drive forward the development of paper-based primary packaging. The first prototypes were recently presented; they include waterproof paper shower gel tubes as well as refill bags and portion sachets with a high paper content. Bio-based coatings provide the necessary barrier properties against moisture and grease.
There is also new impetus in the luxury segment: a US packaging manufacturer has created a patented refill jar made from moulded cellulose for Guerlain’s luxury skincare product “Orchidée Impériale”; a demonstration that sustainable materials are also finding acceptance in the high-price segment.
Flexible machines for growing packaging diversity
At the upcoming interpack, machine manufacturers in Düsseldorf will once again be showcasing innovations in the filling and packaging of cosmetics. Flexible solutions are in particular demand, to cope with the increasing array of variants. The Marchesini Group, for instance, has complete packaging lines in its portfolio, including the AXO 1000 automatic tube filling machine and the JAM 42 monoblock machine, which fills viscose products as well as liquid and foaming products such as nail varnish, perfume, cleaning agents or creams and is able to process a wide range of cap types.
A case study from Schubert shows what automated filling and packaging solutions can look like in practice. The packaging machine manufacturer has commissioned a compact TLM Power Compact filling line with cobots for natural cosmetics company Annemarie Börlind, which processes glass and plastic containers in a wide range of formats. Thanks to the multi-transport unit, hygienic design and CIP cleaning, the system fulfils both sustainability and efficiency requirements.
Well protected inside aluminium
Another area of innovation is decorative finishing. All4Labels and interpack exhibitor Actega rely on Actega’s Ecoleaf technology with Starshine on-demand metallisation. Metallic effects on cosmetics packaging can be achieved without PET carrier films, which significantly reduces plastic consumption and cuts CO₂ emissions by up to 80 per cent. At the same time, the technology opens up new creative scope for labels in the personal care segment.
Recently established Swedish company Meadow aims to make use of the global recycling infrastructure for aluminium and will be presenting its new capsule technology at interpack. This transforms an aluminium can into a ready-to-use pre-fill solution which, taking the form of a cartridge, can be filled with soap, shampoos and other products and inserted into a reusable dispenser.
Brand manufacturers are also actively driving packaging innovations. The iconic blue Nivea cream jar from Beiersdorf has now been launched in a version made from 95 per cent recycled aluminium – containing a vegan version of the skincare classic.
Digital transparency is also becoming more important: with the EcoBeautyScore, cosmetics companies are currently establishing a Europe-wide environmental assessment system that covers the entire product life cycle. Packaging plays a central role here, as it contributes significantly to Scope 3 emissions. The system evaluates products over their entire life cycle, from raw material extraction to disposal, and for now comprises four product categories: shampoo, conditioner, shower gel and facial care products. A global expansion is planned. “EcoBeautyScore is the transparency tool that the beauty industry has been waiting for. For the first time, brands can communicate their environmental impact in a scientifically sound, consistent and clear way,” says Jean-Baptiste Massignon, Managing Director of the EcoBeautyScore Association.
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